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My First Knive .. Design And Materials Selection

Discussion in 'Design' started by ETremblay253, Jan 10, 2017.

  1. Grayzer86

    Grayzer86 Active Member

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    Apparently from what i have heard, M4 is a bastard to work with. They say that even in an annealed state, it still has a lot of large very wear resistant carbides. A thread i read a while back, and the general consensus was its not a steel for hand tools and filing especially in a larger blade. 3V would be a great choice for a hard use chopper, and for simplicity, 5160 is always a decent options.
     
  2. Kevin Cox

    Kevin Cox KC knives

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    The worst I've worked with so far is cpm30v you won't pay me enough to make another knife with it.
    Easiest I've worked with is Aeb-l
    For knives I've tested
    Aeb-l, AST 34 cpm 154
    440C cpm 30v,cpm s35vn
    D2 ,Elmax ,M390
    And I'm doing a lot now in CTS XHP.
    For M4 I have two small pieces in my shop but never got around to trying it. Maybe some day lol but I like the look of 4V better.
     
  3. ETremblay253

    ETremblay253 New Member

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    That Just makes alot of sense i like the idea i may do just that
     
  4. John Noon

    John Noon Well-Known Member

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  5. ETremblay253

    ETremblay253 New Member

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    Well i hand grinded my first bevel today and i had a blast (and a couple of blister lol). It was only to pratice the steel i used is probably not high carbon i dont think it will be hardenable. :( it was from a small dunlop tire pry bar that came from a volkswagon mechanic's tool box from the 50's my wife's granfather use to repair volkswagon in NYC in the 50's and he gave me a box full of old tools.

    As i was grinding my first bevel i stop to let a bit of metal on the edge to be able to make a secondary bevel and i think i left a bit to thick witch cause my secondary bevel to be look very wide. what would be a good thickness to leave the edge before applying the secondary bevel? and also what is a good angle to put on that secondary bevel. Im sure there is. many different answers on this but what would be a simple rule of thumb for a beginner
    thanks for all your help

    [​IMG]
     
  6. John Noon

    John Noon Well-Known Member

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    a couple of millimeters is fine before heat treating after then 1mm will work. really depends on the end use of the knife, I have one I am doing for fine detail cutting and it will be a half millimeter or slightly more before the edge goes on
     
  7. ToddR

    ToddR Putterer, Tinkerer, Waster of Time Staff Member

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    Seeing it, it makes a ton of sense. It really does.

    Now what's all that pink stuff on the edge of the blade? Have you been using this knife to spread frosting on cupcakes? Might be a bit overkill for that : )
     
  8. ToddR

    ToddR Putterer, Tinkerer, Waster of Time Staff Member

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    Icho, have I ever told you how much I love your knives? They are so clean looking and I love the sharp "angular" look. I myself think I prefer to make and use more roundy or curvy knives but I absolutely love the look of this knife. I'm utterly jealous of how clean your plunge lines are.
    Really nice work. I will be moving down your way in the spring. I may have to start apprenticing for you : )
     
  9. Kevin Cox

    Kevin Cox KC knives

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    Lol pink stuff is from pink trees . Hahaha. This was a test knife and the blade is busted up . So is just covered it up with pink :D
     
  10. Kevin Cox

    Kevin Cox KC knives

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    I sharpen at 19 degrees then put my finial at 20 degrees
    Most of my blades are around 0.015 or less.
    When they come back from heat treat the first thing I do is set my angle on my blades to 19 degrees.
    Then I hand sand them the final time and I sand the shoulder of were I put the 19 degree.
    You have to be careful the knife is sharp as I set it to a burr with a 220gr belt.If your fingers touch the edge your going to see blood .lol
    Then when the knife is finished I hand sharpen it at 20 degrees.
     
    John Noon and ETremblay253 like this.
  11. Icho-

    Icho- Staff Member

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    Thanks Todd. Crisp grind lines are very important to me. I have reground knives in the past because my grind lines weren't the way I like them. When you move to the Windsor area let me know. I'm nowhere near being able to have an apprentice but we can definitely meet up and work on and talk about knives.
     
  12. ETremblay253

    ETremblay253 New Member

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    Kevin, Where do you get Zwear from in Canada ?
     
  13. Kevin Cox

    Kevin Cox KC knives

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    I get it from two places in the US . AKS and Eastern Tool steel . I haven't found a place in Canada that sells it.
     

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