1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Icho's Viking KITH.

Discussion in '2013 Winter KITH' started by Icho-, Aug 31, 2013.

  1. Icho-

    Icho- Staff Member

    Likes Received:
    152
    Trophy Points:
    63
    I've been googling viking knives and been coming up with mostly Scandis but I am getting some ideas. I still haven't decided on anything accept that I will not be making a sword. I want to get moving on it though because I will be moving Nov 1 or maby even Oct 1st.
     
  2. Mike the Viking

    Mike the Viking New Member

    Likes Received:
    10
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Hi Icho, try googling seax or saxe viking knives,
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2013
  3. Mike the Viking

    Mike the Viking New Member

    Likes Received:
    10
    Trophy Points:
    8
  4. Ryan Ladurantaye

    Ryan Ladurantaye Active Member

    Likes Received:
    32
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Hey mike that's a great chart. I've been googling like crazy too. That chart helps
     
  5. Icho-

    Icho- Staff Member

    Likes Received:
    152
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Thanks Mike. That is a handy chart. I have noticed the seax and it is what I have been leaning towards and the chart chould really help with my design.
     
  6. Icho-

    Icho- Staff Member

    Likes Received:
    152
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Well I haven't been slacking too bad cause I've been working on knives but I have to start catching up on my Viking knife. I actually had this sketch done over a week ago and I've been meaning to post it since I finished it. My son ripped the pommel off. It is actually supposed to be a ball. Here it is.

    [​IMG]

    I'm still not sure how I'm going to attach the 1/4" threaded rod to the tang. Worst case I will braze it at work but I have never done it before. I was even thinking about using a tube that slides over the rod and the tang with pins thru the tube and tang and also the rod and tube. And then soldered so it doesn't wiggle during assembly. Let me know what you guys think.
     
  7. Brad

    Brad Active Member

    Likes Received:
    86
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Good concept what type of steel are you going to use for it?
    Here is a trick for the tang. Put two pieces of mild steel on both sides of your tang and clamp tightly with C clamps. File or grind the end so it is nice and flat. Now you can center punch and drill a hole in the tang. I drilled and taped the tang then removed the side pieces. I don't remember who told me this trick but it worked like a charm. There is no metal on the sides but you would have to put crazy stress on it to cause the tang to fail
     
  8. Icho-

    Icho- Staff Member

    Likes Received:
    152
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Brad. I will be using o-1. I am not sure I totally understand. Do you mean tap the end for the threaded rod to screw in or tap the side so I can screw the mild steel to the tang and maby weld the threaded rod to the end? Thanks.
     
  9. Brad

    Brad Active Member

    Likes Received:
    86
    Trophy Points:
    28
    I scratched up a quick PDF (A picture is worth a 1000 words) but I don't know how to paste it into my response. If you want I can e-mail it to you, I just need your address
     
  10. Icho-

    Icho- Staff Member

    Likes Received:
    152
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Message sent. Thanks Brad.
     
  11. Icho-

    Icho- Staff Member

    Likes Received:
    152
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Okay. So I dropped my blade off for heat treat this morning and picked it up after work. The blade was ready for heat treat for at least a month and I was hoping to get some other blades cut out and ready for heat treat with it but that didn't happen with the move happening so since I have less than a week I couldn't hold off any more. I'm hoping to semi finish grinding tonight but we will see. I also picked up the milling attachment for the taig lathe from Lee Valley to see if I can attach it to my logan 200 lathe. It looks like it will work out. I may just have to make up a t nut type plate so that I can attach it in place of the tool post. That should take a lot of time and frustration out of cutting slots in gaurds. I just wish I had a collet set for the lathe.
     
  12. stevebates

    stevebates Member

    Likes Received:
    25
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Right on Icho, can't wait to see it :)
     
  13. Icho-

    Icho- Staff Member

    Likes Received:
    152
    Trophy Points:
    63
    I can't wait to get working on a knife after 5 weeks but now I have another dilemma. I plugged in my grinder for the first time since I moved. It started up for a second and shut down. Ends up it's the plugs in my garage. I checked the breakers and they are all in the on position. I'm guessing its a bad breaker and they are not labled very good. I will have to run an extension cord into the house until I can find my voltmeter. Oh well. Tomorrow is another day.
     
  14. stevebates

    stevebates Member

    Likes Received:
    25
    Trophy Points:
    18
    That's no good, sounds like a loose neutral.
     
  15. Icho-

    Icho- Staff Member

    Likes Received:
    152
    Trophy Points:
    63
    I'll check it out tonight. One of these days I have to run more power into the garage. I only have 2 plugs in my garage. Maby a third but my bench may be in front of it. And there is no 220.
     
  16. Icho-

    Icho- Staff Member

    Likes Received:
    152
    Trophy Points:
    63
    I was able to grind my blade. Extension cord going into the house. For the most part the rest is hand work and then I can go on to the handle. I finally feel like I'm getting somewhere.
     
  17. Grayzer86

    Grayzer86 Active Member

    Likes Received:
    139
    Trophy Points:
    43
    Hey Icho. If you can find the breakers turn them off and back on. Sometimes this does the trick. The older cutler hammer breakers and the square d brand were known for tripping internally and not actually flipping the switch. It's possible with all new breakers because they are trip free, meaning they can trip even if you hold the switch in the on position. I have seen it with federal breakers too but less common. Aside from that I would try another tool in the plug and see if that tool runs, it's possible it could also be a bad start capacitor or run capacitor on your motor, or even a loose wire on one of the caps. Just a few things I have run across before. That said, I quite being an electrician 5 years ago to move into the telecommunications field.
     
  18. Rob W

    Rob W Active Member

    Likes Received:
    57
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Look forward to seeing it Icho , glad to see some of you are still able to get it done !! I'll be in on the next one !
     
  19. Icho-

    Icho- Staff Member

    Likes Received:
    152
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Thanks Grayzer. I'm very happy to say the grinder is fine. The only 2 plugs in my garage have no power. The problem with my breaker box is that it is labled horribly. A bunch of breakers are labled "lights" and a bunch are labled "plugs" with no indication for where. This weekend when I have more time I will map out the box and then I will know which breaker is for what and hopefully be able to free up a couple spots because I am planning to run 220v to the garage and add a lot more plugs. I actually wouldn't mind adding a breaker box in the garage for the garage but I have to find out what code is for all that. I couldn't start flipping breakers today because I would have had a wife and kids screaming at me. Lol.

    Thanks Rob. I'm hoping to post pics in the next day or so.

    So who is still in?
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2013
  20. Rob W

    Rob W Active Member

    Likes Received:
    57
    Trophy Points:
    48
    not exactly sure Icho to be honest.........we'll have to see in the next couple days
     

Share This Page